Across the high winds of the Tibetan Plateau, where monasteries cling to ochre cliffs and the mountains stretch far into the sky, the northern face of Mount Everest rises in stillness. This is Chomolungma, revered by the Tibetan people, and honoured by those who seek to approach her with humility and strength.
The northern route to Everest’s summit is a path carved by history, tested by solitude, and preserved in its raw grandeur. Far from the busier trails of Nepal, this face of Everest speaks with quiet authority. For those who choose it, the journey becomes a profound encounter with one of the Earth’s most commanding landscapes.
A Route Steeped in Legacy
In the early twentieth century, explorers crossed the high passes of Tibet in search of a route to the top of the world. George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared on these slopes in 1924. Their story remains etched into the cold stone of the North Face.
The northern route preserves the spirit of that early era. It remains quieter, more austere, and unshielded from the fierce Himalayan elements. Climbers come face to face with Everest in its most elemental form.
Reaching the Foot of the Mountain
The journey begins in Lhasa, Tibet’s spiritual heart. With its golden-roofed temples and thin mountain air, the city provides a vital opportunity for early acclimatisation. From there, the expedition travels west by road across a vast and deeply sacred landscape.
Stops in Shigatse and Tingri offer moments of rest and glimpses into Tibetan daily life. The long drive allows the body to adapt steadily, while each bend in the road reveals ever more commanding views of the Himalaya.
Eventually, the route arrives at Chinese Base Camp at 5,150 metres. Unlike the trek-based approach from the south, the Tibetan side can be reached by vehicle. The setting is stark and otherworldly. Even the silence feels heavier at this height.
Advanced Base Camp and the Glacier
From Base Camp, yaks carry supplies up the East Rongbuk Glacier to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400 metres. This becomes the expedition’s main base. Days are spent acclimatising, preparing equipment, and studying the face of the mountain.
Surrounded by ice towers and sweeping views of the North Face, climbers begin their rotations higher up the mountain. Every step is deliberate. The body slowly adjusts. Spirits settle into the rhythm of high-altitude life.
The Climb to the Summit
Above ABC, climbers establish a sequence of high camps:
Camp I (North Col) sits at 7,000 metres. Reached by ascending a steep icy slope, this is where the exposure to wind becomes sharply felt.
Camp II at 7,600 metres lies on an open snowfield. Temperatures plunge and movement becomes slower.
Camp III, just below the summit ridge at 8,300 metres, is placed above the line where the body begins to deteriorate. Oxygen systems are used continuously here.
The final climb passes through three rock features. The Second Step is the most technically demanding, with a near-vertical wall aided by an ageing metal ladder. Beyond it, the route follows a thin, snow-covered ridge to the summit.
The ascent begins in darkness. The mountain looms in silence. Wind shapes the sound of each breath. At the summit, 8,848 metres above sea level, the world reveals its quiet curve.
The Guidance of Pema Dorjee Sherpa
Climbing Everest from the north requires more than determination. The route demands sound judgment, precise timing, and deep knowledge of high-altitude risk. These are qualities earned through years of experience.
Pema Dorjee Sherpa brings that experience in full. With over two decades of leading expeditions across the Himalaya, including multiple summits of Everest, he has gained an unmatched understanding of this route. His knowledge of the terrain, weather patterns, and human response to altitude allows him to lead with calm authority.
Pema understands when to advance and when to wait. He knows how to assess subtle changes in a climber’s condition and how to manage the pressures of extreme altitude. His leadership turns uncertainty into clarity.
For those attempting Everest from Tibet, his guidance is essential. It transforms the journey into one grounded in safety, trust, and deep respect for the mountain.
Everest Alpine Trekking: Making the Summit Possible
At Everest Alpine Trekking, every expedition is built with precision and care. We coordinate all logistics with the China Tibet Mountaineering Association, ensuring smooth access to permits and support.
Our services include:
- Full expedition planning from Lhasa to the summit
- Visa processing and Tibet entry permits
- All ground transport and camp logistics
- High-altitude Sherpa staff and professional climbing guides
- Oxygen systems, satellite communication, and safety infrastructure
- Pre-climb consultation and post-expedition care
Each journey is tailored. We keep our teams small to ensure safety and personalised support. From the moment you arrive in Tibet to the final step back from the summit, we remain fully present.
This is not a package. It is a partnership. A commitment to your mountain dream.
Choosing the Right Season
The climbing season from Tibet runs between late April and early June, when the weather begins to stabilise and the winds drop along the summit ridge. The ideal window often occurs in May.
Our meteorological team works closely with the guiding staff to monitor these shifts. Summit pushes are timed with care. In the north, this timing often means the difference between success and retreat.
Who Is This Route For?
The northern approach to Everest is demanding. The camps are colder, the wind is stronger, and there are fewer options for immediate evacuation. Climbers need previous experience above 6,000 or 7,000 metres, strong physical conditioning, and mental clarity.
For those who are prepared, the north offers something exceptional. The solitude deepens the experience. The exposure tests resolve. The reward is not only reaching the summit, but doing so on a route shaped by history and untouched scale.
Climbing Everest from Tibet is a journey of discipline and reverence. The mountain does not offer comfort. It offers clarity. Each step on the glacier, each breath above eight thousand metres, reveals a little more about one’s will and one’s place in the world.
With Pema Dorjee Sherpa leading the way and the full support of Everest Alpine Trekking, this climb becomes more than a summit attempt. It becomes a rare chance to meet the mountain with honesty, skill, and quiet strength.
The northern face of Everest is waiting. We are ready to take you there.