Mt. Makalu, at 8,463m, is the 5th highest mountain in the world and has the appearance of a perfect pyramid. Like Annapurna and Kangchenjunga, Makalu is a more technical climb than Mt. Everest. A Makalu expedition is a considerable mountaineering challenge and requires an experienced team, with proven ability, and sound logistic back-up.
The expedition starts with a short but exciting flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar followed by a four-hour Jeep ride to the roadhead. The trek to Base Camp (BC) is something of an adventure with many ups and downs and rivers to cross. Not that long ago there were no lodges on the trail but that has now changed. There are lodges in many villages now, there is even a basic lodge at BC.
Having reached BC there will be time to rest, acclimatise and recharge your body battery before embarking on the climb. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) will be sited at 5,700m. Above ABC will be 4 more camps; Camp I on a glacial plateau at 6,150m, Camp II at 7,000m, Camp III at 7,300m and Camp IV on the North Ridge at 7,850m. The final push to the summit at 8,463m will take several hours! If you have chosen Full Expedition Service your experienced Sherpa guide will be with you every step of the way, doing his best to get you to the summit, and safely back to Base camp.

Highlights

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs

Highlights

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs

Mount Makalu (8485m) by an American team led by William Siri for the first time climbed in the spring of 1954. Mount Makalu Expedition was composed of Sierra Club members, including Allen Steck, William E. Long, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team, including Sir Edmund Hillary, was also active in the spring but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy during a French trip to Jean Franco.

Trip Highlights

less crowded than Everest.
just as challenging as Everest.
3rd highest mountain in the world.
The trek into Base Camp in remote uncommercialized region.
incredible views of Everest, 8848m, Lhotse, 8516m, Makalu I, 8463m, Makalu II, 7660m, Peak 38- 7591m, Pumori, Lhotse Shar, 8410m, Barunste 7145m, Chamlan 7319m, Kanchanjunga, 8586m, Jannu Himal, 7710m.

Day 01 :

Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.

Day 02 :

Prepare for Expedition, Hotel.

Day 03 :

Expedition Briefing in Ministry of Tourism, Hotel.

Day 04 :

Fly to Tumlingtar & Drive to Num, Lodge.

Day 05 :

Trek to Seduwa, Lodge.

Day 06 :

Trek to Tashigaun, Lodge.

Day 07 :

Trek to Khongma La (Danda), Lodge.

Day 08 :

Trek to Mumfuk, Lodge.

Day 09 :

Trek to Yangle Kharak, Lodge.

Day 10 :

Trek to Merak, Lodge.

Day 11 :

Trek to Sersung (half day rest) for acclimating, Lodge.

Day 12 :

Trek to Makalu Base camp, Camp.

Day 13 :

42 Climbing Period for Makalu (8,463m), Camp.

Day 14 :

43-Trek to Mumbuck, Lodge 3550 m 5-6 hours.

Day 15 :

44 Trek to Khongma La (Danda), Lodge.

Day 16 :

45 Trek to Seduwa, Lodge.

Day 17 :

46 Trek to Chichila, Lodge.

Day 18 :

47 Trek to Tumlingtar, Lodge.

Day 19 :

48 Fly back to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.

Day 20 :

49 Free Day in Kathmandu, Hotel.

Day 21 :

50 Final Departure.

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How much does it cost for the Makalu expedition?

For the Makalu Expedition, you need to pay USD1800 per person to the Nepalese Government for the permit during the Spring. Likewise, you need to pay USD900 per person if the expedition is in the Autumn and USD450 if you’re climbing in Summer. Besides the royalty fees, there are other costs associated with logistics that differ according to the concerned agencies.

How hard is Makalu to climb?

Makalu is the world’s 5th highest mountain with an altitude of 8463m. Mountaineers worldwide identify the peak as one of the hardest peaks to climb among other 8000ers. It is so because of its complex structure. It is rocky in the lower part and gets narrow and icy as we head towards the summit. It demands a lot of physical and technical strength. So, we set up 5 different camps at different altitudes besides the base camp.

How long does it take to climb Makalu?

The Makalu expedition is a lengthy challenge to undertake. Starting from Kathmandu, the journey lasts for 50 days, including 11-12 days of trekking to reach the Makalu Base Camp, the starting point for the climb. The actual climb then takes place for the next 29 days, where you go climb across different camps at different altitudes.

What time is best suited for Makalu Expedition?

The weather conditions are particularly unwelcoming around Makalu. There is only a short window of time when the weather becomes suitable for climbing here. Like most mountains, Spring and the Autumn are ideal for the climb. However, this is the only peak over 8000m in Nepal without a successful ascent in true winter conditions.

Which route do you use for the Makalu expedition?

Climbers around the world have made attempts for the summit of Makalu. So, you can find multiple routes leading to the top. For your expedition, you will be using the Northeast route, which is the most popular route with a high success rate.