Pumori Expedition is challenging mountain Peak climbing above 7000 meters. Mount Pumari (7161m/) is one the more challenging 7000m expedition in the Himalayas of Nepal. Pumori lies on the Nepal and China Boarder in Mahalangur Parbat of the Himalayas. This attractive 7000m peak stands about 8.5 kilometers west of Everest and 4.5 kilometres from Nuptse. Pumari means “Unmarried daughters” in the Sherpa language and was named by George Mallory. The peak was climbed by a German-Swiss expedition which included Gerhard Lenser, they reached the summit on May 17th, 1962 via the Southeast face. Mr. Leopold Sulovsky and Zdenek Michalec from Czech climbed the South face via a new route in 1996. An outlier of Pumori is Kala Patthar (5643m), which appears as a big brown bump below the impressive south face of Pumori.
Almost 600 people have been on the summit of Pumori since 1962. Pumari has one of the treasured views of Mt. Everest and an amazing view of Tibet including Rongbuk glacier. The peak has been climbed from the Southeast and Southwest however Southeast is the normal climbing route. As per the record by the government of Nepal and the Department of Tourism the summit is recorded at the coordinates of:28°00’53”N, longitude and 86°49’41”E latitude. Both spring and autumn season is suitable for climbing. This peak is suitable for those climbers who are looking for demanding 7000m climbing and have only a month time. This climbing route will teach you about technical climbing and requires a list of previous 8000m experience or similar experience as well as a high level of physical fitness.
The western flank of Pumari is known as a technical and challenging 7000m expedition. Any climber bound for the Southwest or East on this peak must climb about a 1000m wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 50-55 degree with the occasional 70 degree bulges. Satori climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their jumars. The approached Southeast route is through the famous Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4750m). After half an hour scenic flight to Lukla (Which is known as the Khumbu gateway point) you will be trekking toward Namche Bazaar (3400m), Tengboche (3800m), Pheriche (4200m), Lobuche (4710m), Gorak Shep (5150m) to Everest/Lhotse base camp (5200m). It takes typically 8-9 days to reach Advanced base camp from Kathmandu. Climbers can enjoy magnificent views of the Himalayas, a scenic flight to Lukla,explore the Sherpa & Hillary museum, unforgettable views of Mt. Everest and the Tibetan plateau,abundant flora and fauna, Tengboche monastery and an overall challenging expedition are some of the highlights of this trip.
Everest Alpine Trekking follows the standard route on the Southeast ridge, a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. Everest Alpine Trekking always sets up II to III camps above the base camp at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers and knife-edged ridge of hill side for about 4-5 hours and reach Camp I at 5700m. From camp I, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp II at 6200m. From camp II, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach camp III at 6500m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.
Overview
Everest Alpine Trekking follows the standard route on the Southeast ridge, a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. Everest Alpine Trekking always sets up II to III camps above the base camp at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers and knife-edged ridge of hill side for about 4-5 hours and reach Camp I at 5700m. From camp I, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp II at 6200m. From camp II, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach camp III at 6500m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.
Trip Highlights
- Mount Pumori expedition (7,161m) is a technically demanding climb, ideal for experienced mountaineers.
- Mount Pumori is Located on the Nepal-China border, 8.5 km west of Everest and 4.5 km from Nuptse.
- The peak was First climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser on a German-Swiss expedition via the Southeast face.
- Named "Pumori," meaning "Unmarried Daughter," by English mountaineer George Mallory.
- Offers stunning panoramas of Everest, Nuptse, Rongbuk Glacier, and the Tibetan Plateau.
- Climbers face a 1,000m ice wall with gradients of 50-70 degrees, requiring advanced skills.
- The route passes through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pheriche, and Gorak Shep to Base Camp.
- Visit Tengboche Monastery, Sherpa villages, and the Hillary Museum.
- Trek through Sagarmatha National Park, home to unique flora and fauna.
- Ideal for climbers seeking to train for higher Himalayan expeditions.